Karlštejn, king of the castles

Big must-visit castles in the Czech Republic all seem to begin with K: Karlštejn, Křivoklát, Konopiště, Kačina. Karlštejn is the easiest and most popular, thanks to its proximity to Prague.

Getting here from the capital is a simple and cheap twenty minutes of regular local train from Prague Smíchov station (just west of the river, a short tram ride from the centre or the Old Town). Karlštejn station already feels out in the country, a world away from Prague on the pleasant Beroun river.

Follow the crowds - slightly smaller crowds since the Asian tour groups fell away during Covid, but still plenty in summer - for twenty minutes from the station, over the bridge, and up the notionally car-free lane lined by tourist shops and eateries towards the castle itself. You can't miss the cream towers rising up over the village, defying you not to use the word 'fairytale'.

There are various tours available. You'll get plenty of history and Important Kings etc, but it's also a must-do chance to see the inside of the castle. It's been restored to its austere medieval magnificence, and while most of what you see is replica, it's all well done, and there are a few original bits still left to feel the ages from.

There are fine views back down over the village itself, down in the Beroun valley. If you're hungry and thirsty, there is no shortage of opportunities to address that problem as you walk back down to the station past the tourist stalls and crystal shops. Safe options to eat, at sensible prices, are at U Janu or the Koruna, both with views up to the fairytale towers. (See, I couldn't resist.)

A classy option though is to continue another kilometre past the station to the Mlýn Hotel and Restaurant. It's a fine place, with a lovely quiet riverside setting and very good food. (I had the fresh local trout.) You can stay here, too: a tranquil and quality alternative to hectic Prague. Don't be surprised to see camels and lions - the lane to the hotel goes past a zoo.

So, yes: Karlštejn may not be the only castle in the Czech Republic, and maybe not 'the best', whatever that means. But it's certainly the easiest-accessible from a Prague perspective. And, if you avoid the high season, it's still a must-do for the Czech visitor.

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