Beroun, a place that bears up well

Beroun is one of those likeable, indeed curious, little towns that bears a close look. Sort of literally.

It's only half an hour by train west of Prague, but few stop off here. Known for its twice-yearly pottery fair that draws craftspeople from all round the country and well beyond each spring and autumn, it also has a resident bear.

The main square is where most of the stuff happens. It's not too much of a car park, and has two grand old entrance gates flanking it. The helpful Tourist Info office is on one corner and has racks full of leaflets and brochures.

That pottery museum first. It's down Beroun's most charming little cobbled street, just off the main square. Opened in 2015, it's quite the multi-tasker. It makes and sells jugs, mugs, pots and plates in a charming style fusing traditional local with a modern sense of dash. I'd be happy to have these in my kitchen instead of my Sports Direct mugs and budget-white supermarket crockery, but I'm on my bike and they might get cracked en route back to England.

(Yes, I'm exploring Czechia by bike. The ceramic traditions of the area were evident on my bike ride here from Nižbor. In one village I passed this curious display of mugs racked out along a fence. I have no idea what it's about.)

The museum's museum section itself is in Czech, though you don't need language to enjoy the recreations of traditional pottery workshops and kitchens, or indeed the displays of showpiece ceramics.

Most fun, though, is their pottery workshop (available for good prices thanks to the museum being owned by the city). Here you can watch the experts and then try your hand at throwing a piece, to see how skilled a potter you are.

In my case, the answer was very much don't call us, we'll call you. I dread to think what they'll call me. Beroun has plenty of the cheap and cheerful places to eat - central pizzerias, kebab shops and so on. If you're looking for somewhere to go with friends for a meal out, one popular local choice is clearly Black Dog. The stylish 'American' diner has a huge variety of equally huge juicy burgers and is again just off the main square. Like, indeed, Hotel Anna, which I can also recommend, especially if you much prefer a short walk home post-burger and beers.

Finally is Beroun's quirkiest claim to fame. City Hill (Městská hora) is a, well, hill, right in the city, just off the main square (you can see the theme here). Walk ten minutes up to the top and you can enjoy a mighty view over the town and the surrounding countryside from the lookout tower. The rivers Litavka and Beroun join here, and there are lots of easy and pleasant walks and bike rides along the waterside paths. Well, when the tower's open, anyway. I'll have to come back in summer...

But open 24/7, at least in theory, and free, is the chance to see Beroun's resident bear. Kuba was one of three orphan bears rescued by film maker Václav Chaloupek. He made a popular TV series about them called Méďové (Bears), and in 2000 moved them to a special enclosure in Beroun that's right here by the lookout tower (and a food and drink kiosk, and playground). Kuba's two brothers are no longer with us, but he is. He must have been in bed or having dinner when I was there, because of him there was no sign. I had to make do with the statues. You might be luckier!

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