Litoměřice’s quiet charm by the walls

An atmospheric town of magnificent Baroque churches and town houses at the confluence of Ohře and Labe rivers, about 70km north of Prague, Litoměřice remains reasonably undiscovered and unspoilt by mass tourism. Perhaps it’s the pronunciation (something like ‘lit-om-yeah-zhitser’, though not much).

Friendly locals, a pleasant historical square, city walls and a riverside setting make this an appealing and very easy day trip from Prague. About 100m south from the walls is Tyršův Bridge, on the way to Terezín, which gives good views of the Labe- Ohře confluence.

It also makes a good base for visiting the sombre concentration-camp museums of Terezín, a 3km walk away. I stayed at the Leharo Hostel, a clean, modern and comfy place I had all to myself. Litoměřice is also a gateway and base for exploring the curious volcanic peaks of the little-known České středohoří mountain range and protected area to the north and west.

Not much is left of Litoměřice Castle, but its inside has been stylishly reworked as a museum and tasting cellar dedicated to Bohemian – yes, not Moravian – wine. Exhibition tours and tastings take place by prearrangement. Grape fans will learn a lot, but also have fun: at one point you’re encouraged to sing your favourite song in a computer-recreated acoustic of a storage cellar.

The place also has its churches and regular-issue under-square tunnels that you can visit (in the restaurant Radniční sklípek in the square). But what I liked most about the town was its straighforward charm – and the many places to eat and drink at pavement tables in the main square. Around 1.7km of the historic town walls survive, and you can walk about a third of the circuit. Following their path (use the Mapy.com app) makes for a very enjoyable jaunt round the town’s historic core, with plenty of views and further refreshment possibilities (such as the pub-restaurant Dobrá Bašta) en route.

Cheers! Here's to Litoměřice's quiet charm.